Don't know if you have DISC or DRUM brakes, but YES, by being applied for long periods of time they possibly can boil the fluids near the source and rupture seals without the brake light being on, and all the differential fluid would leak out, which would overheat the differential once enough fluid leaked out. It's the "old snowball effect". Here's how. When you bought the ATV the Service department(upon assembly/inspection/) misadjusted the brakes(drum) too tight with the brake rod and it essentially kept the brake dragging in the housing without you knowing it. If you have a DISC brake setup, the only way this will happen is if the brake caliper had some rust buildup on the disc piston(s) and the pads hungup and started dragging as if, you had your foot on the brake pedal. Another possibility would be a faulty brake switch. All these possibilities WOULD NOT set off the brake lamp. I know this is probably covered under warranty, but ask the Service Manager this question once you get back your ATV and the run down of what parts were replaced if you don't see them on the repair order. If the brake pads(disc) or shoes(drum) had been on and boiled the differential fluid---where's ALL THE NEW BRAKE COMPONENTS that needed to be replaced due to warpage of disc rotor, pads and replacement of disc caliper and all hardware, OR, if drum brakes--replacement of drum, brake shoes and all it's hardware? This would also include brake fluid. Also, there should be a new brake switch on the repair order if it also was at fault--or as I said earlier, possibly a misadjusted brake rod(if it has one) then the brake switch would be good. Don't let the Dealership get away with telling you one thing and replacing something else that had no part in your ATV going back to them for warranty work. If it was the brakes that caused all these problems--- then brake parts will be on the repair order. If not---see the shop manager. Good luck
Delbert
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