Lt125 carb problem - Page 3 - ATV Forum - All Terrain Vehicle discussion for Honda, Yamaha and more ATVs
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 11:15 AM
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sounds like a short...
one wire might be stripped and touching the frame...just look for frayed wires...

Last edited by Trikemaster; 02-15-2010 at 11:59 AM.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:05 PM
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It could be in the Magneto....
#2 COIL, LIGHTING 32120-24310($47) I would check to see what voltage you get at the headlight wires...if very weak then it is this coil
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:08 PM
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Headlight Bulb Connector: #4 http://www.dgy.com/fiche_image_popup...&name=HEADLAMP

* Possible Symptoms: Headlight operating inconsistantly, smell of burnt plastic, headlight fuse or headlight filament blowing.
* Possible Cause: Time & temperature, corrosion, water intrusion, or over-rated bulb in the headlight bulb plug caused the headlight bulb spades to overheat, burning plastic bulb retainer and possibly damaging headlight bulb spades (corrosion, carbon build-up).
* Trouble Shooting & Corrective Action: Disconnect headlight bulb and examine both the spades on the bulb and in the retaining plug for the headlight. Examine the plastic surrounding the bulb retaining spades. If contacts are dirty, plastic is burnt or part is questionable, replace. Pack replacement with dielectric grease. If no problems found, pack existing headlight retaining connector with dielectric grease before reassembly.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:14 PM
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Charging System Over-Voltage/Under-Voltage:

I understand you don't have a battery...

* Possible Symptoms: Headlight dims or brightens excessively with RPM, headlight filament or headlight fuse blows intermittently, blinker and other bulbs give out unexpectedly.
* Probable Cause: Voltage regulator bad and/or battery defective, permitting charging system to vary power outside of expected range. Power variations damaging to various electrical components, including bulb filaments.
* Trouble Shooting & Corrective Actions:
- Using a voltage meter, check the voltage at the battery with the engine & ignition off (reading should be above 11.8 volts and below 13.2 volts). If readings are below 11.8 volts, remove battery and charge on a trickle-charger. After fully charging, check with a hydrometer and recheck voltage readings (should be 12.2 or higher after charging). If battery fails hydrometer check or voltage recheck after charging, replace with fresh battery before proceeding.
- Start engine on center stand, and recheck voltage at battery while varying RPM's (valid range should be 12.4 volts through 14.2 volts). If readings are under 12.2 or above 14.8 while at any RPM with engine running, replace voltage regulator and/or alternator/generator as needed. Note that most shops will replace both at the same time rather than replacing just the voltage regulator/rectifier pack (although the voltage regulator/rectifier pack is normally the part that goes bad).
- Further Troubleshooting (altenator/generator): remove primary leads to alternator/generator and check for continuity as per electrical diagram. If continuity can not be established, replace. If continuity is valid as required, replace only regulator/rectifier pack if voltage is out of range while engine is running and battery is in range with engine off.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon24 View Post
its a cool little wheeler I rejetted it to. The baffle is out so I put a 110 main in it. it has more get up and go now

I've taken the carb apart like 7 times but I wasn't sure if I should clean out the tank. by the way its not metal




thanks
Did you ever fix? It could possibly have a dirty Fuel Pump.....
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon24 View Post
Ive got another problem the light bulbs keep burning out both lights
they turn blue then shut off. if I turn the choke on and run it wide open thats when it happens. the wiring I'm pretty sure everything is in the right place but the low beam white line is not connected to anything and doesn't look like its suppose to so I was wondering if that could be it or if your not suppose to run it like that with the choke on

I have the service manual for it but it doesn't give any answers



thanks

low beam white line is not connected to anything and doesn't look like its suppose to? What kind of connector is on the end of the white wire?
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2010, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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the white line has a plastic thing around it like it could be connected but I don't think so

I think this problem is with all 125s because my cousins bulb blew up on his 87 125 but mine didn't have a headlight so I took the head light off that one

there is no corrosion
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 09:25 AM
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Check the tail light connections and bulb....

This atv does not have a regulator it is important that the tailight be hooked up to keep from blowing out bulbs. an older concept that they used on small engine cycles was what was called a balanced system. meaing the stator puts out "x" amount of voltage and that voltage was used among all light loads on the system. so if one of those is not pulling any load that leaves the rest of the voltage to the other bulb causeing an overpowering. so to rectify this you may need to find a way to hook up the rear bulb. be sure you are using the correct wattage bulbs for these as well. because that will make a difference
in the load distribution as well. Rear bulb-6V,5W Headlight bulb-6V,25/25W
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 09:44 AM
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Check your earth ground at the tail light....
#13 LEAD WIRE, EARTH
TAIL LAMP - 1984 Suzuki LT125E
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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I think it might have been the on/off switch their was suppose to be a rubber piece their were the wires are sautered but instead a silicon type mold thing so I put a piece of electric tape around it hopefully that was it






thanks for all of your help
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