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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys and gals,
New to forum. Found because of problems, lots of good info here. Hoping for some new incite with my problem. Sorry about the long read. Original owner, total 850 miles on Eiger. Always ran great.
After couple months sitting, runs at idle with choke on but dies when trying to throttle up, this started to happen after the fuel petcock malfunctioned, and filled crank case with fuel, also thought fuel had gone bad.
1- Drained oil, replaced petcock, fuel, plugged vacuum line. No change in running it.
2- Rebuilt carb, new iridium plug, no change in running. Called friend that's a mechanic for advice, he came over to help.
3- Rebuilt carb again with him, same problem. Enough need this ATV running it's a tool.
4- Purchased new carb, air filter, gaskets for intake tube, and insulator. Would start, run at idle, dies trying to throttle up unless it sits, and idles for a long time then runs ok, thought well cold blooded, put it away for a day. Next day hard to start with choke on, once started wouldn't throttle up, but would idle badly, no throttling up.
5- Use 1 whole can of carb cleaner, and 1 can of WD looking for vacuum leaks. Found none.
6- In the mean time rebuilt old carb using Simple Green, and ultrasonic machine. Online with where I purchased the Suzuki brand carb $500+, I checked to see if they may have sent the wrong carb. Per the company it's correct, they checked with Suzuki. I checked with other websites which recommended the same carb.
7- Can't hurt to try old carb after 3rd rebuild with ultrasonic cleaner, so replaced the new carb. starts with choke on, after warm up will idle normally but will not throttle up.
8- Checked compression at 150psi, waiting for feeler gauges to adjust valves. Have to have offset gauges.
9- Ordered a new coil just in case. Shot in the dark. Didn't help at all, no change.
10- After researching online found possible magnet could fall off of flywheel, so while turning engine over by hand I could hear a snap or click, thought possible magnet loose, after more investigation with stethoscope sounds like its coming from the upper end and not near the flywheel area. Now what could that be?
Thanks for any help.
Dragtower
 

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Ha.. ok. I thought it would have a vacuum operated fuel pump like most older suzuki.. We'll ignore that then..

Have you tried turning the head light on and seeing if it runs any better ? The regulators play up and stop them revving..

It sounds like it is cold blooded alright, especially if it revs a bit after a long idle.

Are you sure there is plenty of fuel getting into the carb ? Have you tried undoing the drain screw and making sure it keeps running through plenty of fuel even after the carb is empty ?

You're back on the original carb now, (which I think is the best idea), so, when you had it apart are you sure you didn't accidently muddle the plastic spacers under and above the slide needle's clip ? They are slightly different thickness. Does the idle mixture screw respond to being turned, and have you adjusted it to the half way between slowing lean and slowing rich ? Are you sure the float level is set correctly ? When you were cleaning the carb did you have the brass emulsifing tube out ? Thats the tube between the main jet and the needle slide, the needle goes into the emulsion tube.. There are tiny holes in the side of the tube that get blocked, and the bore the tube fits into sometimes gets full of crud. Have you tried adjusting the slide needle's clip down a notch ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1 Head light no. Will try that.
2 Cold blooded yes.
3 Lots of fuel going to carb.
4 No plastic spacers.
5 Idle screw, must remove carb to change, no tools small enough to get between starter and carb. Tried half way in from factory setting, no change.
6 Float set correctly.
7 emulsifying tube removed and cleaned.
8 No adjustments on slide needle.
Thank you for suggestions.
 

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Is the fuel going right through the carb though.. It might be getting to it, but is it getting into the bowl fast enough ?

I suppose you flexed both the diaphragms looking for splits ?

Winding the idle mixture screw in from the standard recommended will make it lean at idle, and possibly give it a flat spot/hesitancy.. They are mongrels to adjust but I think you need to make a tool to adjust it in place. I've had a couple of designs but the simplest is to make a short screwdriver out of a four mil(3/16) bolt or screw, then drill a hole in a small bit of beading wood and fit the screwdriver through there and solder a big flat washer onto the screwdriver so it cant come out. Then you poke the bit of wood in and up so the screwdriver engages in the adjustment slot, then holding the wood in one hand you reach in and use one finger on the edge of the washer to turn it.. It helps if the washer has a serrated edge.. for which purpose a coin works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mech Thanks for the help.

Update,
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer with old carburetor on it, the new carburetor Part number 13200-38F4 in the box, explained all of the work done to ATV. They checked the new carburetor part number that I had and informed me that it was the wrong one for the ATV. I explained to them the company that I purchased it from used my VIN numbers to order the carburetor. The dear used the vin number and came up with this part number 13200-38FD1. Told them to fix the ATV it's a tool for me, replace the carburetor. Picked up the ATV with new carburetor from dealer and it runs perfectly.
I have not said where I purchased the original wrong carburetor from because everyone makes a mistake, now I'm expecting that they will own it and return the cost of the carburetor that I purchased from them.
I'll keep you posted.
 
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