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Hey guys, my 1991 King Quad 300 goes through rear universal joints like a savage! All these older suzuki's like mine around my area have this problem. It will cost me the value of my quad to get new factory u-joints from suzuki, so i weld in new ones and replace them every couple months because they break. Does anybody have a fix for this? I hear that you can use arctic cat rear end parts to replace the u-joints with CV joints I believe? i have absolutely no idea what parts I would need to do that, or what quad to get the parts off. Any help here guys?
 

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We've tried both Moose and EPI and parts didn't last twenty minutes on my 92 King Quad 300; snapped right off on moderate ride. Was gonna try Motor Master next. My guy gonna try brazing next set on. Was hoping to find solution in this forum. Maybe try joints with no grease fittings; looked pretty "hollow" where they snapped off.
 

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Going through that many universal joints ?
Something else is going on .
I have 3000 miles on universal joints I have welded in place .
The universal joint needs to be even when its welded in place which means measuring to be sure all 4 universal caps are at the same elevation inside the yoke before you strike an arc .
I also suggest phasing the driveshaft . This means making sure that both universal joints on the rear shaft you are welding are parallel to one another .
Make sure the universal joints are in line with each other . Some quads have a master splines and you cant go wrong but these old suzukis make it easy to install the yokes out of phase .
Remember that universal joints cancel each other out when operating so phasing is very very important .
When you are ready to put your axle shaft back , make sure you put it back to match the yokes on the opposite side of the quad . Phasing both rear axles to match each other will create 1 shaft
Here is a link http://http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Phasing
 

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Going through that many universal joints ?
Something else is going on .
I have 3000 miles on universal joints I have welded in place .
The universal joint needs to be even when its welded in place which means measuring to be sure all 4 universal caps are at the same elevation inside the yoke before you strike an arc .
I also suggest phasing the driveshaft . This means making sure that both universal joints on the rear shaft you are welding are parallel to one another .
Make sure the universal joints are in line with each other . Some quads have a master splines and you cant go wrong but these old suzukis make it easy to install the yokes out of phase .
Remember that universal joints cancel each other out when operating so phasing is very very important .
When you are ready to put your axle shaft back , make sure you put it back to match the yokes on the opposite side of the quad . Phasing both rear axles to match each other will create 1 shaft
Here is a link http://http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Phasing
I did make sure they were in phase, learned that lesson with my old Ford pickup with a 2 piece driveshaft. I am also quite confident I had them centered in the yokes before I welded them in. I'm going to try again, and be ultra picky this time.
 

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i have been having the same issue with my 91 lt4wd just ordered these and they are supposed to be solid u joints ( non greasable) ill post an update if it is a verified fix that holds up to some abuse
 

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i have been having the same issue with my 91 lt4wd just ordered these and they are supposed to be solid u joints ( non greasable) ill post an update if it is a verified fix that holds up to some abuse
Hi. Was this u joint for the inner or outer joint in the rear axel. I have a 1992 with a bad inner u joint that i know of, expect the out to be bad as well. Did you replace both yours? or just one?
 

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Hi. Was this u joint for the inner or outer joint in the rear axel. I have a 1992 with a bad inner u joint that i know of, expect the out to be bad as well. Did you replace both yours? or just one?
I only replaced the inners that were bad. My outters were just fine. From what i just measured on my axle they should be the same joint. Cap size is the same and the yolkes for each end measure the same as well. Use a dremel tool with a nice bit to grind out the old stakes carefully. Weld a washer on the ends to hold the caps in. Do not weld to the cap directly. I also rebuilt my front inner cv joints on mine and re packed the outters.
 

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I only replaced the inners that were bad. My outters were just fine. From what i just measured on my axle they should be the same joint. Cap size is the same and the yolkes for each end measure the same as well. Use a dremel tool with a nice bit to grind out the old stakes carefully. Weld a washer on the ends to hold the caps in. Do not weld to the cap directly. I also rebuilt my front inner cv joints on mine and re packed the outters.
thank you very much, I've never replaced any u joints before, so I'm a bit nervous about attempting it. especially since I cannot just get direct factory replacements. How did you rebuild a CV joint?
 

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Couldnt get the axle out of the front diff so i just pulled the boot back and removed the retaining clip. Then the race and ball bearings come out of the cv housing. If youd rather mail me the shafts ill put u joints in for a fee.
thank you very much, I've never replaced any u joints before, so I'm a bit nervous about attempting it. especially since I cannot just get direct factory replacements. How did you rebuild a CV joint?
[/QUOTE
 

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Couldnt get the axle out of the front diff so i just pulled the boot back and removed the retaining clip. Then the race and ball bearings come out of the cv housing. If youd rather mail me the shafts ill put u joints in for a fee.
I dont beleive the outter cv joints are servicable though
 

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Couldnt get the axle out of the front diff so i just pulled the boot back and removed the retaining clip. Then the race and ball bearings come out of the cv housing. If youd rather mail me the shafts ill put u joints in for a fee.
I just may take you up on that offer and mail you my shafts. If you want, email me drslivingston @ aol and lets follow up with options.
 
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