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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI I was out yesterday for a ride and on my way back i noticed a grinding/popping noise while i was driving on the shoulder with both right wheels in the dirt and both left wheels on pavement. it only seemed to do it when i was accelerating but, i don't think i was ever above 40kph. any time i cross a paved road it feels like a huge load or drag on the bike almost as if the brakes are being applied.
does anyone know if this is normal ? should i avoid riding on pavement altogether?
-also will driving on pavement for short distances cause the engine to overheat?
Thanks
1993 Yamaha Kodiak 4x4 400cc
 

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NO, driving on pavement won't make the engine overheat. BTW, is your Kodiak water cooled(antifreeze radiator in front--with possibly having the radiator cap on a overflow tank) OR, oil cooled(small radiator in front without radiator cap)? This would help in determining what type cooling you have. I have oil cooling on my Big Bear and I don't fear it'll ever overheat. As long as it's moving forward it'll cool properly and oil pump(s) are working properly. If it's liquid cooled, then you might have some water jacket blockage problems/clogged radiator blockage problems/water pump problems/old antifreeze worn out/fins on radiator all bent and not letting air circulate through them), all of which need tending too or changed out. Sometimes the radiator cap gets weak and it needs to be replaced to bring back the proper poundage of pressure to the system.
The popping you're hearing is possibly the "constant volocity" joints that are on these ATV's that are protected by rubber boots. They let the axles have up/down play, and they let the front wheels turn for corners. If they become dried out or there's a rip in the rubber boots and over time, they let the special grease come out, then you need to replace them to get rid of popping/clicking noises. If the popping noises is coming from the center of ATV, then it could be a universal joint that's going bad. This is one of those things where you need to get all 4 wheels off ground and by hand manually turn each wheel to find popping/clicking noises. Don't forget to turn steering left or right to rule out these left or right side noises, if straight ahead noises don't show up.
Is this model a fully automatic transmission, full-manual transmission, or a manual-shift with automatic clutch transmission?
What I'm saying is if it's a full-manual or manual shift w/auto clutch, you still need to down shift and put it in the proper lower gearing to move correctly without lugging the engine down, because whatever gear it's in while moving, it'll still be that same gear when you stop, and then try to move forward again. Also, oil will play a big role in how cool the motor stays and how the ATV shifts---use the proper specification oils. If in doubt--change it out to proper oil. Hope all this info helps--keep us informed.
Del
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks The transmission is a semi-auto with no clutch,
could the noise im hearing be coming from the transmission because the wheels do not have enough slip on dry pavement, causing the trans or diff to grind?
The engine is oil cooled no coolant and im pretty sure its working because i cracked the oil pressure test on the top of the cyl head and oil came flowing out, it just seems like the rad isnt getting hot enough i have craked the oil cooler lines and oil appears to be flowing through it aswell.
i notice when it gets warm it starts to ping which leads me to belive it's getting to hot.
do you know what the operating temp should be ?
Thanks
Andy
 

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Well I can tell ya this, even with semi-auto, you still have a clutch. If you're driving in a straight line, there should be absolutely no noise. Well actually there will be some noise from the engine and the humming of the tires on pavement, road, wind noise, and the exhaust sound. BUT, NOTHING like grinding, squeaking, pinging, clicking or any other odd sounds emulating from the machine. NOW, if you make a turn of the ATV while on pavement, then IT WILL make some noises, because the tires are getting a bite and go through the turn, but there's no slippage, then YES, there may be differential noises, or tranny noises telling you that you need to stop doing that. OR, do it a little easier/slower and not turn so sharply.
You have very good oil pressure, and you don't need to worry about how hot the engine appears, as it's self regulating up to a point. Surrounding air temperatures and ATV movement regulates the cooling effect, while the heat of the engine controls how warm the oil gets and this is where the help from the oil radiator comes in to help with cooling down. If engine does overheat, then your oil light should come on if it's working properly(I would check with ATV repair shop or Dealership mechanic to verify this). If oil light flickers or comes on while moving, then stop immediately and check oil amount or check if ATV is operating at too steep an angle and throwing off oil level in crankcase. It's also important you have the correct oil installed in engine. If you have "too thin" of oil than required, then oil can't keep up with the heat(summer time) and viscosity will break down quickly, and engine could/will spin bearing(s), immediate loss of power, clutch not working, oil burning(going past rings) in other words a possible seize up and having to have engine rebuilt. If you have "too thick" of oil, when engine is at it's coldest(freezing points) then the thick oil CAN'T circulate properly and you wind up with the same things that can happen with too thin oils. Just remember that even though this is a ATV, the engine still acts like a air-cooled motorcycle engine and in order to keep the engine from overheating, YOU MUST NOT let it just sit and idle for long periods of time. Liquid cooled ATV's are totally different in that they have true radiators, temperature thermostats, cooling fans, and the cylinder(s) have liquid cooling ports on their interiors, even if they have cooling fins. There are some 2-stroke ATV's that are air/oil cooled that also have cooling fans, but that's their design. In Springtime, do the initial choke start-up and get moving after no more than 45 seconds to 1 minute. In Summertime/early Fall, you can get moving in 20 seconds to 1 minute. In late, cold, Fall and Winter it may take up to 2 to 3 minutes for the machine to respond to throttle properly. These are just some examples, as not all ATV's respond the same, according to their state of tune, and whether they're carburated or fuel-injected and some machines are just more cold-natured than others.
As to the pinging, there are a couple forces acting together here, and you need to clear this up. One, is to put some carburator, valve and top-piston cleaners through the system to get rid of carbon that's built-up on piston. Second, if cleaners don't take care of pinging, then you will need to go to a higher grade of fuel---There's no choice either way--you don't want pinging. If I remember correctly from my "98 Big Bear owner's manual" it required the usage of mininum 85 or 87 octane. So you may want to look to the fuels you've been using first. Also, if you have "regular unleaded" gas(no ethanol/alcohol mixed) I would try this first, as long as it's the proper octane rating, to see if pinging goes away.If it does, then you know that "ethanol" fuels are possibly the problem. DO NOT put in any fuels that have more than 10% ethanol. AND, NEVER put in any fuels that contain "Methanol" or "Ethanol 85"(15% ethanol) or "Flex fuel" as they're totally different types fuel and they WILL do harm, as your engine isn't set up for it. Hope this helps with your problem. Any other problems, that's what we're here for.
Del
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Delbert thank you for all you help and advice I am going to buy some combustion cleaner today and see if that helps out with the pinging, i will let you know if that helps out
Thanks Again !
Andy
 
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