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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Disc brake Auto part Vehicle brake Brake Rotor

Auto part Wheel Brake Automotive wheel system Disc brake

Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Nut Brake

Auto part Axle part Automotive alternator Transmission part Vehicle brake

How do you remove the brake drum off this thing? It looks like it just slides over the wheel axle and the four lug not bolts but I can't pull it off to save my life. I've tried PB Blaster, a crowbar and multiple hammers to no avail. What's it typically cost to have a dealer replace drum brake pads?
 

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Make sure your parking brake is not on.

Remove the brake cable from the hub.


Put a board over the end of the shaft and smack it with a large hammer. Only do it a couple of times. Then use the board to try and catch an edge and hammer on it. Rotate the hub every smack. If you can't rotate it, your brake is locked up.

Be careful when using pry bars, as there is a seal there that you don't want to damage.


If the brake is locked up, what I would do is make a mess. Plug the drain hole and fill the chamber with oil (cheap stuff will work fine). Put the wheel back on for leverage and turn it. Once you got it loosened up, take the wheel off and see if the drum will come off then.

If you use oil, you'll need to clean all the oil out of the entire chamber, use brake clean and soak the pads for a minute or two.


I should mention that I also used a rubber mallet. Specially formed, put an angle on the head so it would have more surface area for the angled strike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should clarify. These are the front hydraulic brakes, which disengage just fine (I just tried them).

Would you still recommend filling the drums with oil?

My next idea is to find a 3 jaw puller that's big enough to go around the drum, though I was trying to avoid buying more tools. PB Blaster and brute force hammering method has been unsuccessful after two attempts.
 

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filling with oil is only if the pads are stuck. If you can turn the wheel by hand freely, then that is not the issue.

brute force is going to be the answer. Can you pull that plug out and look inside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The plug comes off easy but I don't know how to read the wear indicator to tell if the pads need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Success!

I got it off with a 6" three jaw puller. Had to grind away portions of the dust cover to fit the jaws on the brake drum lip.

Surprising part is that the lug bolts are attached to the drum, and not the axle like is shown on my service manual.

All of the resistance seems to be coming from the super sticky rubber boot seal, so I'm going to clean that up and add some new rubber grease to see if that makes it easier. Axle spline could use some new grease too.

Auto part Rotor Metal Clutch Rim

Rim Wheel Auto part Automotive wheel system

Auto part Disc brake Wheel Tire Vehicle brake

Auto part Machine
 

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Well, that hub does not match the drawing you posted at all.

That is not just the drum, like on all of the ATVs I've worked on, but rather the drum and hub together.

Makes sense that it was difficult to pull off as you had to unseat it from the shaft.

Interesting. Not sure if that is a good thing or a bad thing. Bad that it doesn't match the drawing.

From the pictures, the pads don't look that bad to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ya, I've looked through two different service manuals for this model and there's only one other version left to confirm against. The first two show the same incorrect sketch. Hoping the book supplier will get back to me today.

The right wheel pads are virtually brand new. Hope the left side looks the same.
 

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Once I realized the lugs were attached to the drum I put the nuts on halfway and upside down, so the bevel is up, and used a two jaw puller, switching from one set of bolts to the other. It was slow but it worked fine.
 
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