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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Look at the diagram above it contains the same color wires you mentioned.
G/W and R/W go from stator to CDI.
Now, ya need some specs for testing. IE resistance and voltage specs....
LOL, yes, I just said the same(our reply's are in ESP mode).....wires are of the same colors! Ya, specs for testing...whole nudder
ball game... My thought because it's basic that it's two wires that need to be figured out...that the "charge" or as the aftermarket guy says the AC wire would be the one to find. Once that charge wire is found out...other one is the pulse....My auto light tester with bulb that lights up come in handy in this? if I tested the right charge wire...it would light...but if it was testing the pulse wire, it would not light up, because the fact the tester is hooked to ground acting like a shut off switch?? The idea seems that the pulse is like points...it's providing the "timing" ....then the CDI box takes that and upgrades the power to activate the coil that will provide the spark. Well....gotta run, will see what I can find for more info.
 

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The wires from the stator that provide the charging for the cdi, will have low resistance, and the wire/wires from the trigger coil will have high/er resistance.

Wire colours can change in the same model from year to year or market to market. In the absence of the yamaha manual for the exact model, I'd use my knowledge and logic to figure how the stator is wired and which wire was which
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The wires from the stator that provide the charging for the cdi, will have low resistance, and the wire/wires from the trigger coil will have high/er resistance.

Wire colours can change in the same model from year to year or market to market. In the absence of the yamaha manual for the exact model, I'd use my knowledge and logic to figure how the stator is wired and which wire was which

THANKS for all the replies. I tend to walk away and go back to things as my mind collects it's thoughts. Plus having many irons in the fire ...tend to help that as well. I'm looking later today to check those wires we are talking about. I was bought up with using an analog meter...did lots of resistance testing back in the day. nowdays the dvom seems to be the ticket item for most projects. One must remember with the analog testing..diodes in my case..the testing leads are opposite...depending on the meter...and other factors...if you have a "Good" diode you can use that to be sure..or remind U where the black vs the red leads go. It's funny how a trade that we are good at....can be miles away most of the time from having to "know" the functions of meters....yet here we are...reaching for them in the dusty electrical tool box. Back to the current(pun intended)...been still spraying them screws..I just got this feeling that more may be going on in that stator area....but we shall see.....I'll send a shout...when I see what the tests..come up with. Thanks again
 

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Doug, your problem really is a very simple one. You have as I understand it, two wires coming out of the stator, and you want to know which is trigger/pulse coil, and which is the cdi charging coil. Both those wire's windings, should be earthed inside the housing.

If you use your ohm meter you will find one has low resistance to earth, about, as has been suggested, point three to about one point five or so ohms, The other wire will have a higher resistance, probably between about eighty and two hundred ohms. The low resistance is the cdi charging, and the high resistance is the trigger. All makes and models that use the stator to run the cdi are like that.

Once you know which wire coming out of the stator is which, you can follow the bike's wiring to the cdi using it's colours, or the ohm meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Doug, your problem really is a very simple one. You have as I understand it, two wires coming out of the stator, and you want to know which is trigger/pulse coil, and which is the cdi charging coil. Both those wire's windings, should be earthed inside the housing.

If you use your ohm meter you will find one has low resistance to earth, about, as has been suggested, point three to about one point five or so ohms, The other wire will have a higher resistance, probably between about eighty and two hundred ohms. The low resistance is the cdi charging, and the high resistance is the trigger. All makes and models that use the stator to run the cdi are like that.

Once you know which wire coming out of the stator is which, you can follow the bike's wiring to the cdi using it's colours, or the ohm meter.
Thank you both Mech and Scooter....I ended up getting lucky with the screws on the cover. two that could get the Kroil came out great...but the bottom one...whew...that one was a screw through a aliment stud..the kroil did not get to the treads on that one. OK, the good thing is I'm now at the start of it all...not working backwards. Someone a long time ago, ..has been in there. They put a black line mark on the gold drum to mark the position with the tab under the lip... I think I will need to investigate this more, because the contact tab on the drum that goes past the pulse coil...seems it should be timed other than where they have the black line mark. but back to the wires guys...As Scooter and I where talking about....we where spot on what ones where for the pulse coil...and I tested them as mentioned by you guys...but this time right at the pulse coil...I got NOTHING...still. However my curiosity got the best of me...even though I normally check the regulator when the motor is running...I wanted to see if anything went through...I left the two different yellow wires on the regulator and tested the outgoing red...and got a reading...even though it's only with turning over the starter....not running. but back to this pulse coil thing...now I know someone's been in here, did they put it together correctly. My thinking is that even if they put the drum on way off the mark..still the pulse coil should show something when the tab goes past it..it does not....on either wire...nothing...so we may be looking at a bad pulse coil unit....Kinda looks like I will have to pull the drum, sadly if I'm looking behind the drum right, the other screw that holds this pulse coil is there...but this is where I have to stop and collect my thoughts and go back online and investigate and see if I can find any useful video's of such. This is NOT what I get into with lawnmowers and the such.(I've been spoiled with one coil, one wire, lol) I have to bounce back to other projects that are more in my wheelhouse ...so....I'll be back sometime next week..see what I've come up with...If ya guys know of a video or link that you'd think is good for me to look at...I'm not bashful....I'll give them a looking! Best regards
 

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49 Scoot on you tube will provide more then enough info. Look him up. Then search his videos on pulse coils and stator.
RM Stator is another very informative channel.

You should have a clear understanding after viewing some of their material.

If you still need help, let us know.
 

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I've seen owners manuals for moto 80.. so it seem they do make them. It was probably made(or named), for a limited market.. perhaps japan, so no english workshop manuals.. perhaps..

The ignition timing isn't adjustable Doug. All the tests you need to do can be made with the ohm gauge and without dismantling anything. If the trigger coil is mounted on the outside of the flywheel, and triggered by a small metal plate attached to the flywheel, then it probably works on a different principle to the ones that are inside the flywheel and driven by the magnets. If there is a small metal plate spot welded to the outside of the flywheel, there should be a trigger coil there, on the outside.

The triggers with a metal plate work on a principle called reluctance.. read up about reluctance trigger coils. They're common in auto work. I don't know what sort of measurement you were expecting when you say you got "nothing", but perhaps you were testing it the wrong way. It should have had resistance between the wire and the earth. The resistance changes when the plate goes past it. Electronics detect the change and fire the cdi.
 

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YFM200 is 196-cc, the YFM225 is 223-cc, the YFM250 is 230-cc, and the YFM350ER is 329-cc.
The Yamaha Moto 4 came in four versions with different engine displacements.
Hence, why service manual was unavailable.
The 80 is a Badger........be helpful to know model number etc, so we know what we are trying to diagnose.
 

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Hi scooter. Why? Do you want to know what years they made them ? You're smart enough to find that yourself.. So why do I want to look it up ?

I'm a mechanic and I don't generally need to know the specific model, I know the principle behind all the components and how they work individually, then I see what's there and know how they work on the vehicle.. as you do I suspect.
 

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Oh.. ok. Yeah models always need confirming. Things change from year to year and from market to market.

Thanks for your help here Scooter.. I was starting to bang my head on the wall.. haha.
 
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