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Strange Arc and spark 2007 Cat Prowler 650h1 XT model

3.1K views 1 reply 1 participant last post by  CatProwler  
#1 ·
Machine went through a puddle. Nothing new for years, this puddle was minor compared to the many puddles for many years. So...?? what gives??

The machine would not start again after it was shut off. Ok, let's check fuel and spark. Well, simple took the plug out, with coil wire attached...put spark plug on motor to ground it. Got spark. Ok, let's check fuel...after the 4th crank fuel comes out the overflow due to the auto choke remaining closed.( auto choke does not open, the Mag is supposed to tell it to open, clue here?) (observation, the spark and arc....seems to be all the time as the key is turned and starter is cranking...seems to be very little break between spark at the tip...just something seems off here)(CDI timing is off?)

Tried machine again...put a little gas in plug hole before putting plug back in...still NOTHING!

Ok, took plug back out put it on ground....turned over....now I notice it sparks and arc's from both the tip and the ground part of the plug!! (back of my mind...I keep saying CDI BOX...CDI box..umm?)

But then my mind says...primary pulse coil in stater area? Then my mind says spark plug coil..??

Out of interest, I took off the spark plug boot...it's the kind that has a resistor in it. I test is...NO 5 ohms. I grab one from a small engine check that one...5ohms. umm? ok took out the screw and out drops a fuse looking resistor..I check that...by itself...no dice. then I put my meter probe way in and the other end without resistor in it...NO ohms... ?? in my life time I've NEVER had a "boot" or such be a major issue where the machine will not start or run.(any takers here?)

I then said, I should take the spark plug coil off the machine to run a check on that if can, and check the wire coming from the pulse coil.(or through the CDI box first?) Battery is already disconnected and the key is out ... white/blue stripe wire is off...I got a shock from removing the coil touching ground? or did my fat fingers in a cramped area touch ground and the flat prong? Regardless it was not a major shock, but unexpected. Ok, it's time to do some research and find what other's have learned that I may not have picked up on. My research brings me to different makes, models, forums and the such.

Here was what was said...
" The voltage on the green wire must be pulsating when cranking/starting the bike, not steady. Confirm by similarly testing the voltage on the black wire on the left ignition coil. If the green still reads a constant voltage, then the CDI is faulty; to be more specific, most likely that the switching transistor inside the CDI that drives the right ignition coil has shorted. "

I also thought this tread that happen to be in a Honda Forum was interesting...as I wanted to learn more about the AC/DC factor that feeds the CDI....https://lilhonda.com/index.php?threads/from-weak-to-no-spark-cdi-help-please.12079/

The above info seems to apply to a Honda, but the concept is similar? This is my question;;;;;...........

What I have on the CAT is a white wire with blue strip that goes to the spark plug coil, and of course black for ground and the other end were the spark plug goes in. I have a cluster of wires that go into the CDI box...I would like to figure out exactly what color wire is for what. Like... the voltage wire that must be "pulsating"-not steady... and so on.

Anyone know of where I can find a color chart of the wires and exactly what and where those wires pertain to? In my firm educated guess..I feel the CDI box is at fault.. but it would be nice to try and rule out a few things..after all the CDI box on this thing is NOT cheap...the other stuff is fairly priced. As the old man said....why buy the most expensive part first, when there's all the small things it uses to run off of .....that one might be the real issue. Give your thoughts...hey, I could be overlooking something ...or forgetting a simple task, test, check...etc....Thanks in Advance
 
#2 ·
Machine went through a puddle. Nothing new for years, this puddle was minor compared to the many puddles for many years. So...?? what gives??

The machine would not start again after it was shut off. Ok, let's check fuel and spark. Well, simple took the plug out, with coil wire attached...put spark plug on motor to ground it. Got spark. Ok, let's check fuel...after the 4th crank fuel comes out the overflow due to the auto choke remaining closed.( auto choke does not open, the Mag is supposed to tell it to open, clue here?) (observation, the spark and arc....seems to be all the time as the key is turned and starter is cranking...seems to be very little break between spark at the tip...just something seems off here)(CDI timing is off?)

Tried machine again...put a little gas in plug hole before putting plug back in...still NOTHING!

Ok, took plug back out put it on ground....turned over....now I notice it sparks and arc's from both the tip and the ground part of the plug!! (back of my mind...I keep saying CDI BOX...CDI box..umm?)

But then my mind says...primary pulse coil in stater area? Then my mind says spark plug coil..??

Out of interest, I took off the spark plug boot...it's the kind that has a resistor in it. I test is...NO 5 ohms. I grab one from a small engine check that one...5ohms. umm? ok took out the screw and out drops a fuse looking resistor..I check that...by itself...no dice. then I put my meter probe way in and the other end without resistor in it...NO ohms... ?? in my life time I've NEVER had a "boot" or such be a major issue where the machine will not start or run.(any takers here?)

I then said, I should take the spark plug coil off the machine to run a check on that if can, and check the wire coming from the pulse coil.(or through the CDI box first?) Battery is already disconnected and the key is out ... white/blue stripe wire is off...I got a shock from removing the coil touching ground? or did my fat fingers in a cramped area touch ground and the flat prong? Regardless it was not a major shock, but unexpected. Ok, it's time to do some research and find what other's have learned that I may not have picked up on. My research brings me to different makes, models, forums and the such.

Here was what was said...
" The voltage on the green wire must be pulsating when cranking/starting the bike, not steady. Confirm by similarly testing the voltage on the black wire on the left ignition coil. If the green still reads a constant voltage, then the CDI is faulty; to be more specific, most likely that the switching transistor inside the CDI that drives the right ignition coil has shorted. "

I also thought this tread that happen to be in a Honda Forum was interesting...as I wanted to learn more about the AC/DC factor that feeds the CDI....https://lilhonda.com/index.php?threads/from-weak-to-no-spark-cdi-help-please.12079/

The above info seems to apply to a Honda, but the concept is similar? This is my question;;;;;...........

What I have on the CAT is a white wire with blue strip that goes to the spark plug coil, and of course black for ground and the other end were the spark plug goes in. I have a cluster of wires that go into the CDI box...I would like to figure out exactly what color wire is for what. Like... the voltage wire that must be "pulsating"-not steady... and so on.

Anyone know of where I can find a color chart of the wires and exactly what and where those wires pertain to? In my firm educated guess..I feel the CDI box is at fault.. but it would be nice to try and rule out a few things..after all the CDI box on this thing is NOT cheap...the other stuff is fairly priced. As the old man said....why buy the most expensive part first, when there's all the small things it uses to run off of .....that one might be the real issue. Give your thoughts...hey, I could be overlooking something ...or forgetting a simple task, test, check...etc....Thanks in Advance
Well, I've been busy... I found some info as for wires and where they go...that helps to see what goes where and what controls what ...to a degree...found the color wires of neg side of mag pos side of mag...neg side of trigger coil...pos side of trigger coil...now I need to see testing info...I found that too.....shows what lead of the tester goes to what wire...but it says....check according to spec's....but does not give any? what's the meter reading spec? So from the looks of what's below...as for what current is used...it's DC in this case...where other makers use A/C...?? yes?

Wiring Schematic for 07 650 H1
this gave me this....
here you go...................


Attachments

then that got me to "K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
[   ]
arctic_cat_2008_400_500_650_700_700H1_service_manual.pdf

RESISTANCE (Charging Coil) 1. Set the meter selector to OHMS position. 2. Test between the three black wires for a total of three tests. 3. The meter reading must be within specification. what spec?
RESISTANCE (Trigger Coil) 1. Disconnect the gray four-pin connector on the right side of the engine just above the starter motor. 2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position. 3. Connect the red tester lead to the green wire; then connect the black tester lead to the blue wire. The meter reading must be within specification. what spec?

RESISTANCE (Source Coil) 1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow wire; then connect the black tester lead to the white wire. 3. The meter reading must be within specification. what spec? NOTE: If the meter shows other than specified in any resistance test, replace the stator assembly. PEAK VOLTAGE (400) NOTE: All of the peak voltage tests should be made using the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) with Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). If any other type of tester is used, readings may vary due to internal circuitry. NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for these tests.
Magneto Coil (Trigger) 1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the green wire; then connect the black tester lead to the blue wire. 3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter. 4. The meter reading must be within specification.what spec?
Magneto Coil (Source) 1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow wire; then connect the black tester lead to the white wire. 3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter. 4. The meter reading must be within specification.what spec? PEAK VOLTAGE (500/650 H1) NOTE: All of the peak voltage tests should be made using the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) with Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). If any other type of tester is used, readings may vary due to internal circuitry. NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for these tests.
Magneto Coil (Trigger) 1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the green wire; then connect the black tester lead to the blue wire. 3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter. 4. The meter reading must be within specification.what spec?
Magneto Coil (Source) 1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow wire; then connect the black tester lead to the white wire. 3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter.what spec?

CDI Unit (400/TBX/500/650 H1) The CDI is located beneath the seat near the battery. NOTE: The CDI unit is not a serviceable component. If the unit is defective, it must be replaced. The CDI is rarely the cause for electrical problems; however, if the CDI is suspected, substitute another CDI unit to verify the suspected one is defective. NOTE: Prior to replacing the CDI unit to assure the CDI unit is defective, it is advisable to perform a CDI peak voltage test (see Ignition Coils in this section) and/or perform a continuity test of the wiring harness from the CDI connector to the CDI unit. not a whole lotta help here on testing or checking the CDI itself...but agree that the other components leading to the CDI should be checked if can...sad that basicly here they saying ...only way to "know" a CDI box is defective is to do a switch a roo....ouch!...and you can't send back that expensive CDI once you've bought it!(provided it's not the CDI that's a problem)